Here’s a fine grain clay I took it out and began to do Tulsa Auto Detailing. I took the plastic off the one, just folded it up, compact, whatever it is, put it back into your jar, and then put the jar back on, just like that. Your team has it in the packet, yes in the back that if you take the clay then this just happened. Do you take the claim you just said, like this, gravity is going to make this thing settle, and it’s going to almost adhere to this if it is just sitting outside? What’s the best way to get rid of bug stains out of your clear coat and take stains so bug guts. Well, bug guts, I mean, we have like a bug remover. It’s not what it’s called.
A great option is a waterless wash when we do Tulsa auto detailing. If you go on a trip and you have bug-outs on the front you spray waterless wash on it first as you douse it with a waterless wash, and you go perform your waterless wash around the whole car. Then when you come back, you spray. I just missed a day of waterless wash, and when you wipe it they come off really, really easy. In essence, it removes the stains in your clear coat. I would say, really the only way to remove bugs stains or other stains is to polish your car, and that’s just because, you know, the color of whatever the bug that is has gone into the clear coat, you need to essentially like get below the point of where that color is made it into, so unfortunately polishing is your only option.
You always have to polish after we do the Tulsa auto detailing. No, if you play your color you don’t have to always polish after. That’s why we offer a fine gray clay, the finer the clay, those are more maintenance clays I would say they’re just less abrasive. Okay, so I’ve been thinking about this a lot lately. I think of detailing or car care in general as a two-phase system or a two-phase world. Okay to two different worlds, one phase is perfecting your car. Okay, that is, you wash your car, you clean it, and you fully polish it two-step, three-step whatever, whatever the system is, you get your car perfect okay, then you put the protection on top. Okay, whether that’s wax, sealant, or ceramic coating, or graphene coating. Okay, you put protection on that. Why do you put the protection on top protection is the second phase of the whole thing.
You did all this work upfront in phase one, get your paint perfect, your clear coat perfect too. Phase two is maintaining that phase one or that perfect finish for as long as you can. Okay, so you put protection on it, if you put graphene ceramic coating on it, it’s going to help maintain that perfection longer. If you put wax on it, you need to continually put wax on it to help maintain that protection for longer. Once you have your car perfect, it’s clean, it’s polished. Now what happens three months down the road or five months down the road, you have paint overspray, you have roads or you have trees that those bonded contaminants. Be sure to get in your car when you wash your car like I just did. You won’t take those bond contaminants. You need to get those off by claying your car.
Using a fine grain clear clay will help remove those without scratching your car. If you put ceramic coating or graphene ceramic coating on your car it will offer better protection. It is even more, it’s more what am I trying to say. It’s more resistant to the scratching from clay or even just spraying and wiping okay so no clay won’t necessarily scratch your car if you use a medium grade clay or something a little more aggressive, you can potentially get some more in there and then you need to polish it, but that’s why medium grade clay I would say is like specific to claying your car before you go and polishing it. In doing so, medium gray clay would be more involved in phase one, when you’re trying to perfect your car like we do when calling 918-999-0355 or visiting on https://oklahomiescardetailing.com/ now.
Tulsa Auto Detailing | Does Your Car Deserve An Extra Dose Of Love?
Fine-grained clay is what we sometimes use during Tulsa auto detailing. We will use clay and use it more in kind of phase two when you’re trying to maintain perfection, for as long as you possibly can because let’s be honest. Phase one is cool and fun but I don’t want to polish my car for a week. I promise you I don’t want to do that, you know what I do want to do, I want to wash it in 30 minutes. I just think about it like that, getting hard getting a car perfect and maintaining a perfect car. I think that that’s a good long-winded last answer. I think next week what we should do is headlight restoration.
This kit is on the website and helps immensely with Tulsa auto detailing. It’s going to have the correct or not correct polish and also a starting compound. I think it says heavy correcting compound on there, just a little two-ounce bottle. It also comes with a polished blue foam pad and a white foam pad. It also has a couple of microfiber pads, and it comes in with a drill backing plate as well. So, if you don’t have a mini polisher because these are four-inch pads. If you don’t have a mini polisher then it comes with this drill attachment to be able to put onto a drill and I’m going to show you guys how to do both ways with the drill and the mini polisher.
We will offer all this and more in our Tulsa auto detailing packages. It has a two-ounce detail spray. Sometimes a Polish can be hard to remove, so that’s just a way to hydrate the polish to get it off and then use a utility towel or I think we have one called a shop towel to remove the excess. You don’t need to worry about scratching your car because there are two of them in here. I didn’t even see this one on the bottom. Now their towel and instructions. So that’s where you get the whole kit so you can save the box if you want, but it doesn’t matter. This is enough to do both headlights, like I said before I did this one already, just so everyone could see what we’re going to get to versus what we’re dealing with.
I’m just going to start, I’ll start with the drill so you guys can see how that process works and then I’ll move on to the polishers, I mean it’s essentially the same thing. Would you spray the ceramic line surface? First, if you already have it. Anything you can do to help the ceramic. The ceramic adheres better. Yes, but this doesn’t come with prep and it doesn’t even come with any protection so this kit specifically doesn’t come with any protection so like I said I have the whites here. These whites would come separate, but if you have any sort of protection like if you have paint sealant, or ceramic spray coating or graphene ceramic spray coating graphene coating. You want to protect these after no matter what. That’s going to be coming later, another time but that one comes with the protection in it so that’s just something to know for everybody but if you’re in need right now to do this, this is the process right here, and like I said, just use paint sealant, or ceramic coating, whatever, whatever kind of robust protection you have then that’s what you want to do to your car.
Get this rolling so drill attachment I just put straight into just like a drill bit. As this long piece here goes straight into the drill that just uses this as just like a pill attachment. Good to go. Now, this on to which is a little bit higher speed. I’ll probably start on one with the more torque, and then, we’ll always want to start with the microfiber pad just because it’s the most aggressive so try to center this the best you can. You will have to correct and compound or just compound. Is there a difference depending on the type of drill regular impact hammer? I would say use a regular drill. Most everybody has a regular drill and that’s all you really need for doing headlight restoration with Oklahomies Car Detailing now. We will make your headlights look clear whenever you give us a call at 918-999-0355 or visit https://oklahomiescardetailing.com/ at any time.